AMERICAN MISSIONARIES IN PATAGONIA, 1833-34

William Arms & Titus Coan

published in The Missionary Herald by The American Board of 
Commissioners for Foreign Missions, Boston, USA.


*[Preface from the original publication]*

The embarkation of Messrs. William Arms and Titus Coan, destined to
explore the southern portion of South America, with a view to enable the
Committee to decide on the expediency of establishing a mission to the
native tribes in that quarter, was mentioned at page 459 of the last
volume. The plan of the mission, and the expectation, till near the time
of their embarking, was that they should proceed to the western coast of
Patagonia, and land near the 47th or 48th degree of south latitude, and
thence visit the coast, the adjacent islands, and, if practicable,
penetrate into the interior among the Araucanian bands, near the
southern provinces of Chili. Respecting the field presented in that
vicinity for missionary labor, the Committee had received very favorable
information. But as no opportunity was found for conveying them directly
to the western coast, passage was obtained for them in a vessel bound to
Gregory's Bay, near the eastern entrance of the Straits of Magellan. It
was hoped that from this point they would be able either to cross the
Andes near the straits, and then move up the western coast; or else
penetrate the country on the eastern side of the mountains, till they
should reach the latitude mentioned above, and then cross them, and thus
reach the point of their destination. But both those courses were found
to be beset with insuperable obstacles. On the north they found an
extensive desert, through which none of the Indians would consent to
conduct them. On the west the Andes, covered with perpetual snow,
presented a very formidable barrier, while, from all the information
they could obtain, the western coast, for many hundred miles, was almost
destitute of inhabitants, rendering travelling by land nearly
impracticable. No conveyance by water could be obtained. They were,
therefore, compelled, after collecting what information they could
respecting the few small bands of natives which roam over the country
east of the mountains and near the Straits of Magellan, to return,
without reaching that portion of the country which it was especially
intended they should explore, Much information has, however, been
obtained by them relative to the southern extremity of the continent,
together with the manners and character of the inhabitants, and the
methods by which they and the more northern tribes must be approached,
which may be of great benefit in devising future measures for sending
them the gospel.

Messrs. Arms and Coan embarked at New-York, August 16th, 1833, in the
schooner Mary Jane, capt. Clift; landed at Gregory's Bay, November 14th;
re-embarked at that place, on board the Antarctic, capt. Nash, January
25th, 1834; arrived at the Falkland Islands on the 28th; and commenced
the homeward voyage, March 9th, in the schooner Talma, capt. Allyn, and
arrived at New London, Ct. May 14th.

In addition to the acknowledgments which have before been made, of the
kindness of Silas E. Burrows, Esq,, owner, and capt. Clift, master of
the schooner Mary Jane, in which Messrs, Arms and Coan received a
gratuitous passage to Gregory's Bay, both the missionaries and the
Committee would express their obligations to Mr. Penny, owner, and capt.
M. M. Melward, master of the schooner Sappho of Liverpool, Eng., for
very seasonable supplies furnished by them when touching at Gregory's
Bay; to capt. J. S. Nash, of the schooner Antarctic, of Westerly, R. I.,
for a gratuitous passage from Gregory's Bay to the Falkland islands, and
a month's residence on board his vessel; to capt. Pendleton, of the ship
Hamilton, and capt. Davison, of the schooner Hancock, of Stonington,
Ct., for politely accommodating them on board their vessels, without
charge, while detained at the islands; and to capt. G. L. Allyn, of the
schooner Talma, of Groton, Ct., for a gratuitous passage from the
Falkland Islands to New London, Ct. Messrs. Arms and Coan were thus
enabled to accomplish the whole tour, from the time of their embarkation
at, New York, till their return to their native land without expense to
the Board.

Extracts from their separate journals will be given in this and
subsequent numbers of this work.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

*November 14, 1833.* Arose this morning and found our bark quietly at
anchor under the shores of Patagonia. It is now the opening of a
southern summer, yet the high hills on the north and south are capped
with snow. At an early hour we went on shore with capt. Clift and some
of the sailors, in order to search for the natives, none of whom had yet
made their appearance. We landed upon a fine sand beach, and, ascending
a steep bank about a hundred feet, obtained a view of an extended
landscape, terminated in the rear by Table mountain of moderate
elevation. On the bank we found a few low thorn bushes just putting
forth small yellow blossoms. With these we made a smoke in order to
raise the Indians; a smoke being a well known signal among them, and,
when discovered, always leading them to the spot whence it arises. After
waiting some time without seeing any of the natives, we returned on
board the vessel. At one, P. M., we went on shore again, in company with
the captain, intending to travel back into the country in search of the
Indians. Taking au Indian trail, we pursued our way over a rolling
surface, alternately crossing hills of gradual ascent and descending
into intervening plains, some of which appeared to have been submerged
during some part of the winter. The soil appeared to be alluvial. The
hills were sandy and sterile; and the intervals, consisting of a rich
black mould, were covered with thick and tall grass. Found several
plains where the natives had formerly encamped, at one of which we saw
two huge joints of a whale's spine, some six or eight miles from the
shore. Saw only one guanaco in our walk, and on our approach he bounded
across the plains to the distant hills with the fleetness of a deer.
Passed some small basins of water, in which there were a few upland
geese. Now and then a small bird cheered us with a passing note, while
the wheeling curlew poured out his shrill and solitary strains "on the
distant air," and the young rook came screaming in our ears with all the
impudence of the ape. As we passed along we often set fire to the dry
grass to raise a smoke. Horse tracks were every where seen, but no
Indians appeared. At length the declining sun, and our weary limbs
admonished us to return. We arrived at the shore at night, after a walk
of about twenty miles.

On returning from this excursion I could not help reflecting upon the
affecting contrast between this and my beloved country. Here are no
fields smiling under the hand of the husbandman; no gardens and orchards
dressed in vernal beauty; no harbors adorned with the waving flags of
commerce; no cities lifting their turrets to the clouds, no peaceful
villages sprinkling the hills and plains, and no glittering church
spires pointing the weary pilgrim to a "better country." Art and science
have never shed their genial influence over this benighted land, nor has
the light of salvation yet dawned upon it. Generation after generation
have gone down to the shades of death without one ray to cheer the dark
valley, or a "morning star" to give promise of an everlasting day.
[Mr. Coan]

*15.* The captain and myself went out this morning with a view of
penetrating the country still further, and if possible to find the camp
of the natives. Finding a path that had been considerably travelled, we
followed it until we came to the foot and western extremity of Table
mountain, when we saw a smoke rolling over the opposite side; and soon
after a man showed himself on the top. We passed on a few rods and
observed a man on horseback with several dogs following him, shaping his
course for the vessel. Considering our object accomplished, we returned;
and by the time we had reached the shore three others had arrived. They
all wore mantles made of the skins of the young guanaco; and two of them
had check trousers and morocco boots. Their arms and breasts were naked,
except what was covered by their mantles loosely thrown over their
shoulders and bound round the waist with their /bolas/. They wore
nothing upon their heads but a narrow fillet about an inch wide, with
which they tie their hair, which being nicely parted over the centre of
the head is suffered to hang loose about the shoulders. The bolas is an
apparatus used for taking their game, and consists of three balls
inclosed in hide and attached to leather thongs about a yard and a half
long, which are fastened together. It is used by taking one of the balls
in the hand and whirling the others round; and when sufficient momentum
is gained, it is thrown forward and winds itself around the legs of the
animal so closely that it is easily taken. [Mr. Arms]

At four o'clock, P. M., four natives appeared on the shore opposite our
vessel. They were mounted on horseback and attended by a retinue of more
than twenty dogs. In a little time my companion and the captain returned
when a boat was sent to bring them on board together with three Indians
who accompanied them, leaving one to keep their horses. Being desirous
of seeing the head quarters of the Indians before we landed our baggage,
we proposed to the young man who appeared to be the head of the party,
to conduct us to their camp, where we would spend the night and return
to the vessel in the morning. Understanding him to assent to our
proposal, we went on shore, where he selected each of us a horse, and he
mounting a third led us rapidly over hills and plains towards a mountain
behind which we supposed the tribe to be encamped. At length he halted.
We urged him to proceed, winch he did; and we soon met a party of
Indians with bows and arrows. Our guide now inclined to return to the
beach; but by repeating our requests to lead us to the camp we again
succeeded in pressing him forward. As we advanced we were frequently met
by small parties of the natives on their way to the vessel. At length
the sun set and no Indian camp and no more natives appearing in sight,
our guide could be persuaded to go no further and we were obliged to
return. The young man now led us with a more cheerful countenance and a
more rapid movement than before but it was not until ten o'clock at
night, that we arrived on the shore opposite our vessel. Here we found
about twenty savages encamped in the open air, with their horses grazing
around, and a multitude of dogs mingling with them. Not expecting our
return till morning, our friends on board the Mary Jane had retired; and
as she was anchored at some distance from the shore, our hailing was not
heard and we were obliged to cast in our lot with the Indians. Weary and
hungry we set down in their circle around a little fire of faggots,
which, by its faint glimmering, just served to render the dark visaged
savages visible. An aged man roasted a piece of meat, a portion of which
he brought to us. After partaking of their hospitality, our young guide
spread some skins upon the ground for our bed and we lay down to repose
under the lofty curtain stretched over us by the hand of our heavenly
Father. Each of us was kindly covered with a thin blanket, and thus,
amidst horses and dogs, and savages, we slept calmly and peacefully
until the morning.

*16.* Returned on board early this morning and made arrangements for
holding an interview with the young man previously mentioned and his
father in relation to our mission among them. When they came on board
capt. Clift very kindly introduced us to them as men who loved them, and
who had come a great way to visit and do them good. He told them that he
wished to leave us with them for a season, and requested that they would
furnish us with provisions and treat us with kindness; all which they
agreed to do, with much readiness. We inquired about their people and
about one Maria, who we had been told was the queen of their tribe. They
informed us that Maria and most of the Indians were at a considerable
distance on a northern excursion, and that they would return in one
moon. We sometimes found it difficult to make ourselves understood, as
we had no other medium of communication than natural signs and a
smattering of the Spanish language. When the necessary arrangements were
made, we took our baggage on shore and pitched our little cloth tent
among the natives, expecting to return no more on board the vessel, as
she was to leave the first favorable wind. Capt. C. went on shore and
rendered us all the assistance in his power, generously offering us any
thing from his vessel which we needed for our comfort. We found the
Indians miserably poor, having little to eat, and ready to beg our last
morsel of food unless it was concealed from their sight. Their horses
and dogs also were so hunger bitten, that many of them were mere shadows.

*17.* Sabbath. Remained in our tent most of the day. From morning till
night we were thronged with the curious natives, who crowded into every
vacant corner of our habitation, watching all our motions and examining
all our effects, and even the clothes on our persons. Poor men! They
gaze upon us as superior beings, and while we shed the tear of
commiseration over their denudation and wretchedness, we have no medium
by which to communicate to their understandings or their hearts a
knowledge of that God who has made us "to differ." -- The Indians spent
the day in chatting, singing, laughing, smoking, sleeping, and eating.
Indolence and filthiness are two very prominent characteristics of these
savages, and appear in bold relief on the first interview. Our old
friend brought us a piece of roasted guanaco, although he has but a
pittance for himself and family. He seems to look upon us as his
children and divides his morsel with us. [Mr. Coan]

*18.* Both the males and females paint their faces either the whole or
in part, commonly with black or dark brown, which gives them a savage
appearance. Almost never washing, even their hands, the color of their
skin appears almost black, though when they are washed they are only
swarthy, or perhaps a light olive. Their hair is as black as a raven,
long and rather coarse, though much less so than that of the United
States' Indians. Their cheek bones are high and broad, which gives them
the appearance of having large faces of an angular figure. Their bodies
are well formed, with straight limbs, round and plump -- feet large, and
their height from four and a half to six feet. [Mr. Arms]

Whenever these natives espy a vessel approaching their coast they always
repair immediately to the shore, and will remain there, even though
pinched with hunger and exposed to the weather without shelter by day or
night, until it disappears. The first inquiry among them is for rum and
tobacco -- two poisons which have been administered to them by our seamen;
and so great is their eagerness for these strange stimulants, that I
believe they would lie upon the beach exposed to wind and storm, until
they were on the point of starvation, with the bare hope of obtaining a
dram or a plug of tobacco. They are also fond of bread, molasses, and
other articles of food, and are often anxious to obtain muskets,
ammunition, and knives, though they have but little knowledge of the use
of the first. It is truly distressing to learn that our own countrymen
have also plunged into the most loathsome debaucheries with this unhappy
people, and rendered almost inveterate rate those polluting vices which
carry death in their train, and spread a fearful blight, over all that
is lovely. Even here, in this obscure corner of the earth, almost
unknown to the naturalist, the merchant, the philanthropist, or the
Christian, the missionary of the cross has been preceded by the apostles
of Satan; and that disease which may well be compared to a "dart
stricken through the liver," and which "eats like a canker;" which is as
a fire shut up in the bones, burning "to the lowest hell," is
reciprocally communicated. To the honor of the vessel which brought us
out be it said, that the improper conduct here alluded to has not been
allowed by the captain, and as he is a firm advocate of temperance, and
commands his vessel under that banner, no ardent spirits have been given
to the natives.

*19.* Arose early, and went out to look for the schooner, which was
riding at anchor in the bay when we retired; but it was gone, the wind
having favored during the night. The waters slept or rolled as before;
the mountains wore their fleecy crowns; the hills reared their naked
brows, and the plains rested in loneliness; but wherever the eye turned
no traces of civilization were seen, its last vestige had floated away
like a vision of the night, and nothing remained to relieve the sight
from those dreary features which make this land as a waste, howling
wilderness. [Mr. Coan]

It affords them great amusement to see us write, and they seem to think
that it is some wonderful thing. They usually appear pleasant to one
another and often divide the presents they receive with their fellows.
They seem to regard private property, each one having his own, and
though their tent is common, there seems to be no interference. One
horse is usually tied near the tent, so that when water or other horses
are wanted, they are not obliged to go on foot. [Mr. Arms]

*20.* The rain having ceased, the horses were all brought up at an early
hour this morning, and capt. Louie, the young Indian before mentioned,
invited us to prepare for a removal. Accordingly we struck our tent and
put our baggage in readiness for the horses. In loading these animals I
was astonished at the burdens they were made to carry. After some skins,
etc., had been put upon one of the horses, our chest lashed to a heavy
trunk to balance it, was put upon him, and upon those a bag, as heavy as
a common travelling trunk, was placed, and above all this a woman was
mounted to guide the horse. The horses gear is very simple. The men use
a rude saddle constructed with pieces of wood, and somewhat resembling
our saddle-tree; and the women a sort of pillion of skins, and like the
men, ride astride, hut without stirrups. The bridle is made of skin,
with wooden bit, and usually without a head-stall. In packing the horses
the women did the labor, while the men lay or set upon the ground as
idle spectators. For want of a sufficient number of horses, some of them
carried double riders. When every thing was in readiness we mounted our
horses, and taking a sturdy Indian behind me, moved onward in company
with our young friend, capt. Louie, who led the van and directed the
movements of the party. Our progress, I should judge, was about four
miles an hour. The day was cold, and the wind strong and piercing. After
riding eight or ten miles, the Indians halted under a bunch of
thorn-bushes, kindled a little fire to warm or smoke themselves, and
then proceeded onward, stopping occasionally when they found a bunch of
bushes as before. Saw many guanacos standing as sentinels upon the
surrounding hills, or grazing on the extended plains; but as we
approached them they would skim the plains "like a hind let loose," and
soon disappeared. As we advanced the young captain suddenly halted,
gazed a moment towards the hills on the left, and then plunging his
spurs into his horse's side, darted like an arrow across the plain, with
hair and mantle streaming in the wind -- dogs and Indians following him.
The rest of the party moved on steadily with the baggage. Inquiring the
cause of this strange movement, one of the savages pointed in the
direction the young man had gone, and said, "Guanac, guanac," giving us
to understand that he was pursuing a guanaco. In a few minutes he
rejoined our party, having taken the animal he pursued. The guanaco is a
species of the lama, somewhat larger than the deer, with long legs and
neck, and cloven feet. He color is a pale red or sorrel, and white. The
head and ears resemble those of horses. It is clothed with wool, like
the sheep, though this is interspersed with long hair. It neighs like a
colt, and at a little distance might easily be taken for that animal.
Its slower movements appear laborious and ungraceful, but when pursued
by the hunter, it moves with great celerity, and appears hardly to touch
the ground. The flesh is very palatable, and after a cold and hungry
ride of some twenty miles, a piece of it, which the captain roasted and
brought us, was really grateful.

We reached the camp at four P. M., after a ride of twenty-five or thirty
miles, which we performed in about seven hours. Here we found a company
of the savages inhabiting ten tents of skin. On our arrival the natives
gathered around us, men, women, and children; first standing and gazing
upon us at a respectful distance, till encouraged by our attentions they
gradually approached nearer, apparently welcoming us with mingled
surprise and joy. Our baggage, even to the smallest article, was brought
safely, and capt. Louie, who had taken special charge of it on the way,
now stowed it carefully in his tent, and remained by it until our own
tent was erected and prepared for its reception. As soon as the bustle
was a little over our old Indian mother boiled a piece of the guanaco
which had been taken on the way, a liberal share of which was brought to
us for our supper. Young Louie came and sat down by us, and began to
inquire the American name of many things around, and in return told us
what they were called in the Patagonia tongue. He and all his father's
house appear very attentive and friendly to us, and we have already
reason to be thankful that the good providence of God has put us under
the care of this family, as they are evidently the most intelligent,
hospitable, and prepossessing of any of the natives we have yet seen. As
the sun set, the crying of the little ones in the tents, the barking of
dogs, and the noisy mirth of numerous children, engaged in merry gambols
about the camp, revived the associations of childhood and brought
domestic scenes of my native land vividly to recollection. [Mr. Coan]

*21.* We found ten tents in the camp, but it would perhaps be impossible
to tell how many souls there are in them, though from a little
calculation I should judge about fifty. The tents are made of the skins
of the old guanaco, sewed together, and so spread over poles that are
stuck in the ground for that purpose, as to cover the top and the sides,
except the front, which is always to be eastward and entirely open. On
this side they build their fires.

The provisions that we brought from the vessel being about exhausted, we
applied to the natives for some, but had only to ask the question and we
were plentifully supplied, though we had neither bread nor any
substitute for it. We should undoubtedly have been spared the trouble of
even asking, had we waited a little longer. [Mr. Arms]

[end of first episode]



*November 21, 1833.* Louie invited me to accompany him on a hunt for
guanacos, to which I consented. He furnished me with a horse, and gave
me his gun, and, sportsman like, off we started with dogs in abundance,
and soon saw plenty of game. The guanacos usually take their stand
either on some hill or extensive plain, that they may command as wide a
view as possible. This precaution they have learned to take by being so
often surprised by their antagonists. I presume we saw more than fifty.
Three were taken by the party, from which we were plentifully supplied
for our suppers.

The ride to-day gave me an excellent opportunity to see the country. To
a considerable distance from Gregory's Bay to this place, as far as the
eye can reach each way, the country is all of deluvial origin, with here
and there a spot of alluvion, which appear to rest on beds of sand and
gravel. There are many marshes and small ponds, winch appear to be only
basins holding the water that drains into them, though they seem to have
water in them all the year round, and afford nutriment for numerous
aquatic plants; and upon their surfaces are to be seen multitudes of
birds, such as upland geese, ducks, gulls, etc. The alluvial plains are
probably such ponds filled with earth from the hills. The hills are low,
but precipitous and composed of sand, gravel, and small stones: but I
have seen but two or three rocks, and those appear to be only boulders
of granite. The hills are not entirely barren, though they produce but
little. There is no appearance of wood, except a few stinted bushes,
that are seen along the sides of the hills and about the low grounds.
[Mr. Arms]

Our old mother brought us a piece of boiled meat for breakfast, though
it was evidently nearly the last morsel which she had. Capt. Louie
observing me in the act of shaving this morning, requested me to do the
same to him. I accordingly went through with the operation, apparently
much to his satisfaction, though he was as beardless as the boy of eight
years old. These savages pluck out their beards, and their eyebrows,
which preserve to them a youthful appearance, when they are somewhat
advanced in life. -- Went out to see the Indians in their tents. In some
of the tents there is but one family, in others two or three. Each tent,
containing more than one family, is divided into stalls according to the
number that occupy it. This is done simply by hanging up skins as a
partition. Most of the tents contain no furniture, except a few skins to
sleep on, an old skin bag to bring water in, a piece of raw hide made
into a dish to drink from, and perhaps a few small stones with which to
roast meat, and a little bundle of sharp sticks which are used to
confine skins to the ground for drying.

As the meat was exhausted in the camp, we expected to suffer, and also
to witness suffering by hunger, but in a little time a detachment of the
hunting party returned with three guanacos, and before night a piece was
roasted and brought us for supper. We were also presented with an
ostrich's egg, measuring fourteen inches in circumference.

*22.* The poor savages continue to crowd around us as usual, keeping up
a continual begging for almost every thing they see in our possession.
We frequently distribute small presents among them, with which they are
much pleased. A sight of their poverty, their ignorance, and their
degradation is truly affecting. Their only garment is a mantle of skins,
in the form of a blanket, which they wrap around their bodies; except
that when they ride, some of them use boots made of the skin of a
horse's leg taken off whole, and drawn upon their lower limbs. Most of
them use a narrow headband, some permitting their hair to hang down at
full length, and others turning it up behind. Like other savages, they
are excessively fond of ornaments, though they have not been able to
obtain many, a few beads around the ankle and wrists, or a few jewels in
the card, being all that we see. We distributed many thimbles among
them, and endeavored to teach them the use of the needle, according to
the custom of our country; but we soon found the thimbles suspended from
their necks as ornaments, and the needles put into handles like awls;
making an instrument which they call /hodle/, and which they employ in
sewing their skins, using the tendons of animals for thread. They paint
their faces with red or black, and often stripe their arms, breasts, and
legs with white.

We find that the family who had taken us under their care, are not
generally acknowledged as the head of the tribe, but a man by the name
of Lorice is recognized as their captain and chief. We also find that a
perfect cordiality of feeling does not exist between the family of
Lorice and the Louie family.

The game which had been taken yesterday was exhausted, and we were glad
to receive a piece of roasted horse beef, which was presented us by our
young-friend. These savages are so supremely indolent, that they make no
effort to obtain food until hunger drives them to the chase; and then,
if they are unsuccessful in their first attempt to procure game, they
suffer the penalty of their improvidence in a painful fast, unless a
horse is dispatched, which will only supply the wants of a day. [Mr. Coan]

About noon, a horse wag brought up to the butcher. One man held the
animal with a line of about a rod in length, while another, standing at
about the same distance before the horse, let fly an arrow, which
entered below the neck, penetrating some twelve or fifteen inches and
effected its object. The horse was flayed by two men, while a dozen
standing round were unable to keep off the dogs, each one coming up and
getting repaid by blows on the head, which only had the effect to draw
forth a few yelps; for the starving creatures, as if knowing that their
time was short, were constantly watching and never suffered an
opportunity to slip without seizing a mouthful of food. The whole animal
being cut up, wag distributed among the whole. Louie, who appeared to
own the horse, received the principal share in his own tent, together
with the delicacies, such as the heart, lights, entrails, etc., even the
feet, so that not a single bit remained for the poor dogs, but what
blood they could lick from the ground. It was not long before several of
the ribs, nicely roasted, were brought us.

We were plentifully provided with food from the horse to-day, several
bringing ribs about half roasted, others a piece of broiled stake, and
others that which was boiled. Nor were the luxuries withheld from us.

We dined on the ostrich's egg, which was presented to us last evening,
and found it a most delicious repast, equalling the hen's egg in flavor,
and a dozen of them in size. [Mr. Arms]

*23.* An unusual fine morning led me to ramble out on the northern
hills. From the highest summit my eye surveyed an extended landscape;
but like all others I have seen in Patagonia, it slept in dreary
solitude. Hills and arid plains every where met and wearied the eye. No
rivers or lakes, no cultivated fields or waving forests enlivened the
picture. What a mournful contrast between this and the vernal loveliness
of Now England landscape! The good family who have adopted us, have
supplied us with horse-beef to-day, which is now our only food. A party
of Indians went out on a hunt and brought home seven guanacos, about
enough to supply their wants for one day. Our young friend, capt. Louie,
has spent much of the day with us; and by his inquisitive, friendly, and
social disposition, has rendered us happy. He is evidently feeling after
the blessings of civilization. Oh that he and all this people may soon
be brought to feel after God, if haply they may find him. It is painful
that we have no way to convey the knowledge of a Savior intelligibly to
their minds.

We have given young Louie some articles of our clothing, and it seems
highly pleasing to him to wear them in our presence. He often requests
us to do some little jobs for him, such as making spurs, sharpening
knives, etc., and is much gratified with our ability and readiness to
assist him. -- Though deprived of many things in this desert land, we are
rarely without music. The singing and hallooing of the Indians, the
screaming of the children, and the piercing yells of the canine family,
as they pass under the cudgel of their masters or fall into the cruel
jaws of a stronger brother, keep the ear almost constantly ringing. The
dogs here are almost innumerable, and they are reduced to mere skeletons
by hunger. It is truly painful to see with what fury they will attack
each other to obtain a morsel of food which is thrown out to them. The
dogs, like the horses, are the private property of their masters, living
and sleeping in their tents, like the children; and it is remarkable
that although the Indians' tents are huddled thick together, yet each
family of dogs guards a certain space around the master's tent; and if a
neighboring dog, either through carelessness or design, trespasses upon
the premises, he rarely escapes without a smart drubbing. When they go
out to hunt, however, their unsocial rules are laid aside, and the dogs
herd together like their masters. [Mr. Coan]

*25.* Several of the men went out to-day for guanacos, and returned with
ten. One, a very young one, being considered a delicacy, was presented
to the Americans, though we were plentifully supplied from their spit as
usual. A little guanaco is quite pleasant after having little but
horse-beef for some days. -- It is pleasant to hear the sound "America"
introduced into their songs, in a way which indicates they are pleased
to have us with them; and we have had no reason whatever to think
otherwise. With but few exceptions, they appear to possess the most
amiable dispositions, constantly showing us many little kindnesses,
though it is possible they expect as much in return.

If these are the real Patagonians, the story of their enormous stature
is entirely fabulous. Dressed in their mantles they appear tall. When
first I saw capt. Lorice, I thought him a tall man. In his sailor suit,
one would think him a small man, and yet I think him about the usual
size of this people. Their mantles are generally made of young guanaco
skins, cutting them to the edge of the fur, and fitting their crooked
sides together. They are, however, sometimes made of the skins of the
skunk, cut into square pieces, so placed that the white strips may
coincide. The scent they are not careful to take out, and one is as soon
reminded of their presence from their mantles, as the filth of their
persons. They are fond of singing, and many of the women spend much of
their time in this amusement, seldom having more than four or five words
in their song, which they repeat with but little variation of tone, such
as /ga lu la/ or something like it, which can be heard almost any time
of day or night. Some of them have a rattling tone, which resembles the
sound of a bag-pipe at a distance. I have not seen any kind of musical
instrument among them. So destitute are they, that small bits of iron,
cloth, or even paper, are collected and carefully laid up as treasures;
and yet so ignorant, that they value thimbles higher than almost any
other thing, except tobacco, drilling holes through them and wearing
them suspended from their neck, rattling together like bells.

Before the young guanaco was presented to us, our provisions were cooked
for us; since then we have done our own, and arc happy to do so, as it
affords us some diversion, and allows us to dress our food as we choose.
At meal time, we arc sure to be visited, for nothing excites their
curiosity more than our method of cooking and eating. The use of a
plate, knife and fork, seems to be unknown to them.

I was much interested in a sick person we found in one of the tents. An
old woman, a fit representation of one of the furies, was lying by him,
with her mouth to his stomach, muttering the most doleful cry, for the
purpose of driving the disease out of the sick man. [Mr. Arms]

*27.* The natives lounge around us from morning to night, not only
exciting our pity, but testing our patience. Most of them we can manage
with tolerable ease; but our patience, our meekness, our wisdom, were
perhaps never more taxed than to know how to deal with a certain woman
who is a diurnal, if not a perpetual visitor; and who, we learn, is the
wife of the chief capt. Lorice. I suppose that even a patient man would
pronounce her as vexatious a creature as was over seen in human shape.
She seems to be composition of all that is disgusting in filthiness, or
trying in impudence and evil passion. She begs all that she sees, and
labors hard to make us open every trunk and sack, and exhibit every
article in our possession; and if we refuse to gratify her insatiable
cupidity, she will strike her list upon a trunk or whatever is in her
way, with great indignation. She rarely fails to make her appearance
during our meals, usually bringing a squad of children with her, in
order to make her begging more resistless. Taking her position in full
view of us, she watches all our motions, peeping into every dish; and if
we do not distribute the food we have prepared for our own use among her
harpies, she will sometimes dash her brawny hand into our soup, and
distribute among her brood whatever she brings up in her talons. This is
not occasioned by hunger, as she is just as troublesome when full fed as
at other times. Her husband appears like a mild and quiet man, and is
completely under her domination, which appears to be the case with most
of the tribe. We are more impressively taught how much these wretched
beings need the meliorating influence of civilization and the purifying
effects of Christianity.

*28.* For the present we seem to be shut up with this little band of
savages, and have no alternative but to remain with them until the
return of the larger tribe from the north, when we hope to obtain horses
and a guide, and travel through the country. We have determined, so soon
as we can gain the necessary facilities, to make a tour to the
northwest, and, if possible, to cross the Andes somewhere between the
fortieth and fiftieth degrees of south latitude, and thus visit the
shores of the Pacific. But we cannot go alone, as we find ourselves
absolutely dependent on the natives to procure our food; and a
separation from them would undoubtedly reduce us to starvation, the game
here being so wild and fleet that no one but the Patagonian horseman can
take it.

Lorice and his wife spent a long time in our tent. They appeared very
friendly, and informed us that the camp would be removed to-morrow, at
the same time repeating their invitation for us to go with them. They
also exhibited envious and bitter feelings towards our young friend
Louie, and urged us to abandon him, and put ourselves and our effects
under their care. They even pointed towards Louie's tent, and with a
dark frown and threatening tone, exclaimed in broken Spanish, /Malo!
Malo! Maņana!/ i. e. bad, bad, to-morrow. We have reason to apprehend a
gathering storm. And though our young friend has disclosed nothing to
us, yet a settled thoughtfulness marks his countenance and gives evident
indication that something presses heavily upon his heart. His constant
fidelity to us has given us more confidence in him than any other
Indian, and to withdraw ourselves from his care, appears not only
impolite but ungrateful and unjust. We know not what shall be on the
morrow, but it is safe to trust in Him who has the king's heart in his
hand, and, as the rivers of water, turneth it whithersoever he will.

*29.* Capt. Lorice and wife visited us again this morning, and requested
us to strike our tent immediately and prepare to decamp with them.
Perceiving the whole camp in motion, taking down their tents and packing
their little all upon their horses, we also made ready our baggage for
removing. We soon found, however, that our fears of yesterday were about
to be realized, as a warm dispute had already commenced between the two
parties. This originated with the wife of Lorice, whose impositions and
insolent qualities have already been mentioned. She commenced by pouring
a torrent of invection upon the family under whose care we had placed
ourselves, when she perceived them making arrangement to carry us and
our baggage on their horses. Of the cause of this altercation we were
not able definitely to inform ourselves, though we have little doubt
that the contention arose from the envy and cupidity of Lorice's wife,
who seemed to fear that all our attention and presents would not be
bestowed on her family. After a time of angry dispute, matters seemed to
be compromised, and a part of the horses to carry ns and our effects
were assigned us by one party, and part by another. Every thing was now
in readiness to set out, and some of the Indians had commenced their
march, when our modern Jezebel, whose feelings had been hushed for a
moment, like a slumbering volcano, now burst forth with redoubled
vehemence. A trunk of medicine, which she had taken upon her horse to
carry for us, was violently dashed to the ground with some injury, and
another storm of rage was poured upon the heads of Louie and his family.
Soon the hag dashed into the face and eyes of our young friend, and
commenced a combat, by striking, scratching, pulling hair, tearing out
jewels, etc. This excited the friends of the parties to defend their
respective favorites. And now came on the tug of strife, the combatants
continually increasing by new accessions, and becoming more and more
enraged as the struggle continued. Happily they did not resort to knives
or any deadly weapons, as we feared they would, but contented themselves
by tearing each other's hair and faces, until their dark visages were
besmeared with blood. Their rage was now remitted for a few moments to
take breath, when the contest again commenced with maddening energy. The
party of Lorice were the most numerous and powerful, and our young
friend and his family were severely handled. Some of our baggage became
matter of contention in the affray -- the Lorice party endeavoring to drag
it over to their side, while Louie and his family struggled to defend
it. At length the combat ceased, and the parties sat down upon the
ground in sullen silence. During the heat of the contest, we deemed it
imprudent to interfere, as there was no hope of being heard, but when
the rage had subsided, we labored to convince them that such conduct was
bad, and by signs and gestures, gave them to understand that it
exceedingly grieved and distressed us. This seemed to have somewhat of a
softening effect upon them. We made signs to them to reload their
horses, and go on peacefully together, but capt. Lorice shook his head
with an indignant air, and seemed utterly irreconcilable in his feelings
towards Louie. He, however, exhibited no hostility towards us; but by
frequent beckoning and expressions of friendship, tried to persuade us
to cleave to him, while our young friend, Louie, intimated that he
should separate from the tribe, and take another direction, at the same
time desiring us to remain until others had left, and then go with them.
It was a time of trial. To show a preference for one party might expose
us to the jealousy and resentment of the other: and. in case they should
separate, as now appeared probable, not to show preference would leave
us only the wretched alternative of being abandoned by both. All our
prepossessions were on the side of Louie, whose generous hospitality had
supplied us with food, and whose care and fidelity had secured our
confidence. But the Lord in mercy decided the question for us, and
delivered us from this painful emergency: for while we treated both
parties with kindness, and endeavored to conciliate their feelings, they
at length, by a kind of silent assent, arose from the ground and began
to repack their horses, I cannot forbear to mention in this place, a
speech by one of the natives, to which all listened with deep attention.
While the Indians were sitting in moody silence upon the ground, the
stillness was suddenly broken by a man, who commenced an impassioned
harangue, and for about fifteen minutes spoke with profound native
eloquence. He displayed energy, animation, and pathos, with varied and
melodious intonations of the voice and impressive gestures. I
exceedingly regretted that I could not understand his language, nor
learn the nature and object of his address.

*Dec. 1.* My companion has been so indisposed as to keep his bed during
the day, and our old Indian mother has been in several times to
sympathize, with much apparent kindness. There is something so noble and
generous in the appearance of this aged woman and her husband, that my
feelings are drawn out towards them, and I ardently long to tell them of
a Savior before they go hence to be here no more. It sometimes appears
to me, that while the mass of youth in Christian lands reject the Lamb
of God, this aged pair would receive him as little children.

*2.* The Indians were much amused on seeing us wash our clothes. This
was probably a new and strange thing to them. -- Closed our tent before
night and observed the monthly concert. It was a season of new and
peculiar interest. I had prayed /for/ the missionary on such occasions
before, but never with such a knowledge of the wants of a missionary; I
had prayed /for/ the heathen on such occasions before, but never
surrounded by the heathen, within the sound of my voice. [Mr. Coan]

*3.* It is amusing to see the men and children engaged in their sports.
We often see a dozen men in one group, nearly naked, playing ball, and
as many boys in another, chasing their dogs, by throwing nooses over
them, or engaged in some other childish play. In these sports are
exhibited vivacity and kindness to each other; though, as might be
expected, their tender mercies to birds and other animals is often most
wantonly cruel. This, however, is to be attributed to education, more
than to the natural disposition. The children exhibit a docility which
would do honor to a civilized land. It is also encouraging to witness
their desire to conform to American customs, often borrowing our pan to
cook after our manner; thus showing that they have not that deep-rooted
prejudice, so observable in many pagan nations. [Mr. Arms]

*6.* Found a few small edible roots, which are very grateful in this
land where flesh is the only food. -- It being intimated to the family
that we needed more covering at night, they immediately set about making
us a guanaco mantle. We have only to reveal our wants to this family,
and they are supplied to the utmost of their ability. Our Indian mother
is still unremitting in her kindness, and labors to prevent any thing
from annoying us. If the dogs trouble us, while preparing our food, she
often comes with her rod to chastise them, and to teach them good
manners. The children of this family are quiet, affectionate and
obedient. When they visit us, they are never troublesome, like many of
the Indian children, and their sprightliness and pleasantry are often
very exhilarating.

*10.* Having selected a spot of ground, my companion and myself planted
a variety of garden and fruit seeds; but we have little hope of
remaining here long enough for them to germinate. The natives looked
upon our operations with evident wonder, and we endeavored to explain to
them, by signs, the object of our labor, the process of germination,
etc., and the final result in the production of nutritious food. [Mr. Coan]

*11.* The guanacos are very abundant here, often coming within rifle
shot of the tent, notwithstanding the dogs are so numerous. This animal
has a hump on the back, a long neck, and in other respects somewhat
resembles the camel in form. It is probably the lama of Chili and Peru.
It is covered with a fleece of long fine wool, through which there are
projecting hairs still longer. I apprehend it might be manufactured to
good advantage. Its flesh is excellent. Could the animal be
domesticated, it would equal the cow in utility, giving its milk and
flesh for food, its fleece and skin for clothing, tents, etc. [Mr. Arms]

[end of second episode]


*December 14, 1833.* Finding that a young man was going to the Bay, I
accompanied him. On our way we crossed a table land and then descended
into a wide plain almost encircled by ranges of hills. On this plain we
saw several hundred guanacos grazing. My guide gave chase to a drove of
these animals and I followed him, my horse cutting the air so that the
ground seemed like a rapid current under my feet. There was no checking
my bounding courser. I had only to keep my seat and go on. These horses
are trained for the chase and are admirably adapted to the country. When
they draw near a herd of guanacos, like furious chargers, they pant for
the onset; and if loose reins are given to one, it is almost impossible
to hold in the rest. A check makes them restive, and almost furious to
rush upon the prey. As we could get no chance for heading or cutting off
the guanacos, we did not succeed in taking any. Being obliged to pursue
them on a straight line, we soon found them outstripping us in the race,
and though our celerity was such as almost to make the ears tingle, yet
these fleet animals soon left us far in the rear, and we abandoned
pursuit and again proceeded on our way. These natives pursue their game
not only on the pampas, but upon the hills and mountains; and it is
surprising to see their panting steeds ascending and descending steep
and lofty eminences, leaping bogs, ditches, etc., with scarcely any
abatement of their speed, and stopping for nothing until restrained by
their riders, or jaded by toil they sink exhausted on the ground.

After crossing this plain we ascended Table Mountain by a narrow winding
ravine. From the top of this mountain, which is ten or twelve miles from
the shore, we had an extensive view of the strait and of the country on
both sides of it. I discovered nothing new in the soil or external
features of the country. The hills were mostly sand and gravel, but
covered with a stinted russet looking grass even to their tops. The low
valleys contained a rich black mould, and produced rank grass and wild
celery in abundance. No forests were any where to be seen, and no
streams of any considerable size. Water in this country is scarce, and
is usually found in little basins, or in rills at the foot of the mountain.

Our little hunting party returned at evening with thirty young guanacos,
twelve of which were assigned us as our portion. Thus the Lord spreads
us a table here in the wilderness. At this season most of the game taken
by the Indians consists of young guanacos, as they are unable to keep
with the old ones when pursued, and become an easy prey to the dogs.

*20.* Visited by crowds of the natives to-day, who are so friendly as
almost to press us out of our tent. While dressing our game, many of
them gathered around and begged the liver, lights, etc., which they
devoured raw. It is a common practice among them to eat these parts of
the animals which they take in hunting, warm in the field, tearing them
from their game like dogs; not because they are pressed with hunger, but
because they esteem them a luxury in this state, I have also seen little
children eating the most offensive parts of the intestines uncooked and
unwashed.

Young Louie returned at evening with three lads whom he brought from the
tribe of Indians he had been to meet. He informed us that he had found a
large body of good Indians, and that they would all be here on the
morrow. Queen Maria he said was not with them, but they were led by a
capt. Congo, whom he called a very good man and declared him the grand
chief of the nation. When Lorice heard these tidings, he left us to
follow after his own tribe.

Our young friend slew a lion on his return, and a part of its flesh was
presented us. These natives use the lion for food whenever they take the
animal.

This Sabbath has been a day of constant and unavoidable interruptions,
and the sight of those restless savages, roaming on to eternity, without
the knowledge of a Sabbath or a Savior, is painfully affecting.

*23.* Capt. Louie set off early tins morning to meet the approaching
party and escort them to our camp, while the rest of the family seemed
to be making preparations to receive them. About noon the Indians began
to arrive, and for several hours they continued to pour in around us and
to erect their tents on all sides. While the women were engaged in
putting up the tents, etc., the men and children crowded around our
habitation to get a peep at the American strangers. Some ventured into
our tent, others huddled thick before the door, sitting in close ranks
upon the ground, and others arranged themselves on horseback in the rear
of these, and bending forward so as to lay their bodies horizontally on
their horses' backs, strove to get a glance at us through the door. They
were all dressed in mantles of skin like those heretofore described.
They were armed with the bolas, and many of them wore the boot taken
from the horse's leg and the wooden spur. They are a large and noble
looking race of men. Most of them are tall, straight, and well
proportioned, with broad swelling chests; round, smooth, well turned
limbs. Stature usually about six feet. Their hair is long, straight, and
black, eyes and nose moderately prominent, forehead rather low, teeth
well set and of ivory whiteness. Their complexion is rather swarthy, but
their countenances mild and pleasant, indicating friendship and good nature.

When the women had arranged their tents, they also gathered around to
indulge their curiosity for gazing upon us. The females are not so large
nor so well formed as the males. Soon after their arrival, the chief,
capt. Congo, who is the head-man of the tribe, came and introduced
himself to us, and spent a long time in our tent. He is a young man of a
sweet countenance, of a tall and elegant figure, and of much native
gracefulness of movement. He has learned a few English words from
sailors and talks a little corrupt Spanish. He seemed happy to see us
and was very social so far as his medium of communication would admit.
He appears vain, and is much given to self-applause. He inquired about
our country, what houses we lived in, what food we ate, whether we had
"much guanaco," how many moons we were on the water while coming to
them, how long we had been here, how long we would stay, what articles
we had with us, especially if we had rum, and tobacco, with many similar
questions. He was also curious to know our name for almost every object
he saw. Many things appeared truly interesting to him, but every thing
was marred by the shamelessness with which he introduced and pressed
topics of the most obscene nature.

A subordinate captain informed us that this tribe were called the Santa
Cruz Indians, and that the larger part of them are still with Maria at
the north, but would be here before long. He also informed us that the
clan that separated from us yesterday were the Supalios of Port Famine,
that they were bad Indians, and that our friend capt. Louie did not
belong to them but to the Santa Cruz tribe.

*24.* Most of the Indians appear hearty and robust. There is a goodly
number of sprightly children, and there are some very aged men amongst them.

During the day an old man came before our tent door, and observing us
writing, he sat down upon the ground and commenced a loud and boisterous
harangue. Our Indian mother, whose tent is next to ours, immediately
came out and began to labor resolutely with the old man, but all that
was said to him only made him more fierce and clamorous. The Indians
gathered around from all quarters, some of them smiling at his
earnestness, and others appearing absorbed in deep thought or listening
with fixed attention. Our old mother finding herself unable to hush the
man retired and her son, capt. Louie, began to try his skill. He labored
evidently to sooth the old man's feelings by putting his hand upon his
shoulder, and bending down to drop soft words in his ear, and apparently
reasoning with him in a very candid and dispassionate manner. Finding
his efforts unavailing, the young man pressed through the crowd, with
anxious looks entered our tent and sat down between my companion and
myself. All this time we had been ignorant of the cause of the old man's
perturbation though we suspected it might be occasioned by our writing.
This the young man now assured us was the case. He told us that the old
man said our paper and books were very bad, and that he had tried to
convince him to the contrary, but as he had not succeeded, and as the
old man still scolded, he wished us to put up our writing. We readily
took his advice, and could not but feel affected at the very decided,
yet mild manner in which he defended our cause, and at the determination
he showed to defend us to the last by crowding into our tent and taking
his seat between us.

When we had laid by our writing we began to take more notice of the old
man, trying to talk kindly with him, giving him some water in a tin cup,
etc. This seemed to sooth him and he soon retired. [Mr. Coan]

*25.* I passed among the tents this morning, and counted 31; but how
many of these are double I know not. Passing among them they appeared
like stalls, occupied by families or pairs, as the case may be; these
are generally about four or five feet wide and contain from four to six
occupants. These tents are much as the others, having plenty of dogs,
and skins on which they lie or sit, and but little else.

From the first arrival of the camp, our tent has been crowded, and great
numbers sitting around the door. As a body I never saw a company of more
pleasant countenances, or less indicative of bad dispositions. In this
respect I should think they were far before Lorice's party. These are,
also, larger and taller men than those were, though I should think none
were over six feet and two inches. It is pleasant as I pass from tent to
tent to see the crowds of children that follow me, with wonder,
astonishment, and delight at the Americans.

*27.* My patients have increased, until I have seven under my care, four
of them afflicted with pulmonary diseases. The number of those thus
afflicted is an evidence that such diseases are likely to prevail in the
country. [Mr. Arms]

*28.* Some rude young men took our axe without leave and went out to cut
bushes; but our old mother followed them and brought it back to us.

*30.* Our thermometer, while exposed to try the temperature, was stolen
and secreted by some of the savages. We informed our Indian mother of
the loss, and before night her vigilance discovered the culprit, and
taking it from him she restored it to us. She also brought us a strayed
hammer, and then went all round our tent to tighten the cords, and to
see that all our things were secure.

*Jan. 2, 1834.* At ten, A. M., the savages began to move off, but it was
not until two, P. M., that the last of them left the ground. The
appearance of this moving company was truly grotesque. The men harnessed
for the chase, with boots and spurs, bolas and knife, and attended by a
multitude of dogs trooped over the plain, pursuing guanacos in every
direction, while the women and children formed a kind of centre column
and moved steadily on with the baggage. Many of the pack horses were so
heavily laden that their riders seemed mounted on castles, and one
actually sunk under his load. The hens, the pups, the children, and some
of the small dogs were put in little cribs, or packed among the baggage;
and to keep her infant quiet, one woman had some little bells attached
to her crib, which, with their merry tinkling kept time with the horses
feet. [Mr. Coan]

*4.* To-dav two Americans came from the other party. It was pleasant to
see those with whom we can converse with ease, but painful to hear their
profanity, and see them so given up to sin.

*6.* It was thought best that I should go and see Maria. Taking the
young C. and Henry we rode down to the camp, We passed under the
mountain, over an exceeding rich plain, covered with celery, long grass,
etc. We found about 500 Indians living in 60 houses. They appear much
like those with whom we are, except they are addicted to gambling, and
seem very fond of it; spend much of their time at cards, etc.

After staying a short time, Maria, her husband, and two or three others
returned with us, and spent the afternoon. M. is quite pleasant and
social, speaking the Spanish with considerable fluency. I should judge
her to be 55 years of age, and yet she would gallop her horse with any
of us. Like others, she is a great beggar, though apparently very
generous herself, offering me a lion skin mantle and guanaco skins if I
wished. We gave her the cloak which we prepared on board for her, with
which she seemed much pleased. She has four sons, one of whom was
playing at cards with others while I was there, interrupted only by the
use of the pipe, of which they are very fond, and would part with their
last mantle for tobacco. [Mr. Arms]

We supposed Maria to be at the head of the nation; but we now learn that
this is not the case, and that she has no more authority at present than
any other individual, though it was once nearly absolute.

On telling her that I would soon visit that I should her camp she
insisted turn with her this evening and spend several days at her tent,
and her importunity became so strong that I finally consented to go.
Accordingly I mounted a horse prepared for me, and set off at sunset
with her and her husband who accompanied her. We rode with great speed
and arrived at the camp soon after dark. The Indians learning of my
arrival, flocked around the tent in scores to gain a peep at the stranger.

The old queen gave me a piece of roasted meat for supper, and then made
me a bed of skins upon which I lay down, and when she had covered me
with motherly care I slept quietly till morning.

*7.* On arising this morning the old queen brought me a piggin of water
and a piece of soap for washing, and soon served me up a portion of
boiled meat for breakfast. Her tent is made and furnished in the same
style with those of the other natives, with the addition of two or three
articles from a civilized land, such as an iron pot, a piggin, etc. She
inquired how long I would stay at her camp, and on telling her that I
must return in the afternoon, she urged me to tarry longer, at least
till to-morrow. She seemed pleased with her guest, and treated me with
much kindness and simple hospitality. Spent the forenoon in the camp
observing the habits of the savages and getting such information as I could.

At three P. M., I told Maria that I must return, when she harnessed a
horse for herself, and another for me, and escorted me back to my home.
On leaving she presented me with a new guanaco mantle, tastefully
painted, and with seven hen's eggs, which she had preserved from a fowl
kept in her tent. She also presented my associate with a mantle at the
time he visited her tent.

The queen kept a man in her tent whom she called /padre/ and who is a
sort of priest. He wears his mantle and hair in the style of the women,
lives in celibacy, and never engages in hunting, or in any hard labor,
and is supported by the bounty of others. The young sailors here
informed me, that his only official duty is to attend to the burial of
the dead. This process is thus described. A small hole is dug in the
ground and the deceased, having his lower limbs drawn up to his body is
buried in a sitting posture, just below the surface of the ground, with
his face to the east. The padre treads down the grave, and sets up a
solemn mourning over the dead. When this is done, it is said that the
horses and dogs of the deceased are all killed, and that his mantle,
skins, horse gear, hunting apparatus, and every thing which he possessed
are buried, an entire removal being thus made of every memento which
would recall him to memory. This is probably occasioned by their great
dread of death, and their disposition to remove whatever would remind
them of the king of terrors. We have not witnessed a death since we have
been among them, nor have we been able to find a grave. They either
carefully conceal their dead, or carry them to some distant place for
burial.

Their marriages are as follows: -- When a young man's heart is fixed upon
a female, he makes known his desires to some friends, and this person
goes to the girl's father and negotiates with him in behalf of the young
lover. A price is set upon the daughter -- usually a horse, or some
mantles; and when this is paid, the young man takes her for his bride.
On the day he receives her to his house, he kills a horse and invites
his friends to his tent till it is completely filled, and the day is
spent in feasting or gormandizing, laughing, talking, singing, etc.
Other companies collect in different tents, to whom pieces of the horse
is sent, and who spend the day in the same manner. The wife is not only
bought in the way of merchandize, hut she is sold again at pleasure, and
it is not unfrequently the case that a man will have six or seven wives
in succession. [Mr. Coan]

[end of third episode]


*January 8, 1834.* Some Indians ascended Table mountain and returned
with the intelligence that a vessel was approaching from the southwest.
Immediately all the camp was in motion, and the cry of "/Barco! Barco!
Americana barco/" rung from tent to tent. Troops of Indians soon mounted
their horses and galloped off to the shore. Nothing seems to produce
greater exhilaration among these sons of nature than the sight of a
vessel, and I must say that on this occasion my heart partook largely of
the general joy, though my emotions and pleasures were not excited by
the same hope which animated them. I hoped that the long desired medium
of communicating intelligence to my native land was about to be offered.
[Mr. Coan]

The scene of confusion exhibited whenever a vessel stops is past
description. No sooner had this one made her appearance in the bay, than
the beach for a considerable distance was crowded with men, women, and
children. All brought their skins, or whatever article they had for
trade, presenting the appearance of a fair of the most rustic kind.
Their first inquiry was for rum, the next tobacco; for these articles
they were completely crazy. The strength of their appetites and
passions, and the temptations laid before them, must ever be great
obstacles to the spread to the spread of the gospel here.

*9.* Two vessels from America arrived to-day. Most of the Indians are
gone to the bay, and I am left in quiet. Two good women have been
assisting me, in making a lion-skin mantle; they show great expertness
with the "/hodle/" as well as many kind intentions. Several of these
women take a motherly care of us, always informing us when any thing is
in danger.

*10.* The vessels remain, and of course the Indians do not return. A few
returned last night much pleased with the presents of tobacco and bread
they had received, and I was not a little gratified to obtain a bite of
the latter, as it is the first thing like bread I have tasted for nearly
two months; I have felt much the need of it, as my health has suffered
from the exclusive use of animal food.

Last night I observed a man lying in one of the tents, much convulsed,
and apparently dying. No one went near him, nor did he seem to have any
share in their sympathies. This I suppose is generally the case.

Their ideas of futurity are very indefinite. They suppose there are
separate places prepared for the good and bad, according to their
character here; for the good a place of much happiness, where are many
horses; for the bad much torment and fighting; but neither have need of
food. [Mr. Arms]

I hoped to obtain a passage in one of the schooners to the west coast of
Patagonia, but in this was disappointed, as the captains say they cannot
touch any where on that coast.

Went on shore this morning where hundreds of the Indians still remain
hoping to get something from the vessels. They obtained a little
tobacco, but to my great joy could not procure any rum. They use tobacco
only for smoking, of which they are excessively fond. It is practised by
men, women, and children, and is usually their first exercise in the
morning and their last at night. They use wooden pipes, and one pipe
full of tobacco serves for a whole family at a given time. Each one
fills his month with the fumes, and then getting his head near to the
ground, and drawing his mantle completely over it, blows the smoke
gradually through his nostrils until he is strangled and intoxicated.

Finding nothing of special interest to retain me at the bay, I mounted
my horse and returned to the camp, where I arrived at eleven, A. M.

As there seemed to he little prospect of our obtaining a passage by
water to the west coast, my companion and myself determined, if
possible, to make immediate arrangements to cross the country on horses,
and endeavor to gain that shore by passing the mountains. Whether we can
obtain horses and a guide is yet to be determined. To go without both
would be absolute presumption, as it would expose us inevitably to
perish for want of food.

*11.* The party of Indians that were pitched twelve miles from us have
broken up their camp to-day and have all come and joined our clan; and
as we learn that there are no more belonging to this nation we mean to
embrace this opportunity, while they are together, for numbering them.
Invited the grand captain and the Buenos Ayrean Indian, Santurion, to
our tent to converse with them about their country, its inhabitants, the
object of our visit to them, our desire to travel the country and cross
the mountains, their feelings in relation to establishing a mission
among them, etc. These men told us that they had travelled to the north
as far as the river Negro, from thence went to the Andes, which they
labored to pass, but were prevented by their ruggedness, being composed
of rough sharp stones at the base, so that their horses could not climb
them -- which they showed by very expressive gestures -- and being crowned
with deep masses of perpetual snow. They also stated that they travelled
south along the mountains nearly to the straits, searching for some
pass, or some place where they might cross to the other side, but could
not accomplish their object; that they found game scarce, and that their
horses were in danger of perishing for want of food. They described the
country over which they passed with considerable minuteness, and from
certain known data, which we used as criteria, we had reason to believe
with much correctness. They represented much of the interior as a
complete thicket of thorns, in many places impassable. Other parts were
deserts of salt, while some places were marshy and others destitute of
water, etc. They also described the game which was found in different
parts. In one place they said the guanaco abounded; in another the lion,
in another the ostrich, and in some parts there was no sustenance for
man or beast.

In relation to the inhabitants they state that there was a large nation
called /Oncas/ on both sides of the river Negro and between its
branches, extending back to a small lake near the Andes; that this
nation consisted of many thousands; that they had horses, cattle, and
sheep; that they lived in tents of skin and occasionally removed short
distances to obtain pasture for their flocks. In the vicinity of this
nation is the Spanish settlement and garrison at Rio Negro, fifteen
miles from the mouth of the river Negro, to which the Indians resort for
trade. This settlement is under the government of the Buenos Ayres, and
that government hold a nominal jurisdiction over all the natives.

South of the /Oncas/ we were assured that there were no inhabitants,
except the tribe we are with, the Supalios or Port-Famine tribe, with
whom we spent some time, and who are somewhat less than a hundred in
number, and a party from the Oncas nation of about the same number, who
are now in the interior, and whom we have not yet seen.

We labored to explain the object of our visit to them, but could not
convey to their dark minds any definite conceptions of the higher
motives by which we and those who sent us were influenced. They only had
a general impression that we were friends, and that we had ability and
disposition to do them good, but they seemed to have no higher ideas of
good than that which pertains to this life. Nor was it possible, with
our imperfect medium of communicating thought, and with all their
debasement of mind, to enlighten them on the pure and elevated subject
of Christ crucified for sinners. By presenting tangible objects, such as
hills, etc., and inquiring who formed them, we endeavored to ascertain
whether they had any notions of a Supreme Being, but their minds
appeared perfectly blank on the subject, as though such a Being had
never found a place in all their thoughts.

On the subject of a future state we found their notions more definite.
They believe in the existence of the soul after death, and in the
separation of the good and bad. When the good man dies they say he goes
far off to a land of eternal sunshine, where there are pleasant houses,
delightful fields, and fine horses, and where they will be supplied with
all that they desire; but as they will never hunger or thirst they have
no occasion for food, etc. When the bad man dies they believe that he
descends down deep into a bad land of darkness and barrenness and
thorns, where there is much contention and much sorrow.

We inquired whether they would like to have good men come among them,
and bring timber and build a large house at Gregory's Bay; and whether
they would give up their children to such men, who would teach them to
read and write and cultivate the ground; to make clothing and other
useful things. They said it was very good, and that the Indians would
leave their children with missionaries to be instructed while they
travelled the country for pasture and game; and that they would
occasionally visit the establishment to see their children and bring
them /"much guanaco and much mantle."/ We told them that the Indians did
not like our books and papers; but Santurion said this was the case with
only a few, and that this was because they did not understand them.

I would here remark that the sailors whom we found the other day stated
that they brought some books and tracts on shore when they landed, but
that the natives soon took them from them and burned them before their
eyes. The reason of their prejudice against paper they stated to be, the
fact that some of the Indians had died of the small-pox, which they took
from some old papers left by the Spaniards at Port Desire, where that
disease had prevailed. [Mr. Coan]

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On the 12th, the British schooner Sappho, capt. M. M. Melward, of
Liverpool, arrived in the bay, bound to California. Mr. H. Penny, the
owner of the schooner, first came on shore and became acquainted with
the missionaries. The kind attentions received from these gentlemen are
gratefully acknowledged in the following paragraph.

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Mr. P. now took me on board, and introduced me to capt. Melward who
appeared much moved on learning our situation and the object for which
we visited Patagonia. He remarked that he felt a lively interest in the
missionary cause, and that he loved to meet those who were engaged in
it. He very tenderly inquired what assistance he could render us,
assuring me that it would afford him no little pleasure to do any thing
within his power to help us. His kind offers were affecting, and were
made with such undisguised simplicity as at once to give me confidence
in his friendship, and to awaken my affection for him. His whole
deportment was that of a gentleman and a Christian; and I am told he is
a member of the church of England, and that he has regular religious
services on board the vessel on the Sabbath.

*14.* Capt. Congo, who had been made sea-sick by being on board of the
schooner during a storm, and who had not obtained so much tobacco from
her as he wished, became angry and refused a mantle which was offered to
appease him. Before night, however, he came to us with his feelings much
softened, and finally listened to an explanation of the whole matter
with calmness, and quietly received the mantle which had been offered
him. Ho still maintained that the schooner was "/malo/" (bad) for making
him sick, and when he was told that the vessel was not in fault, that
her rolling was caused by the water; then the water said he is "/malo/;"
and when he learned that the wind agitated the water, then the wind was
"/malo/." So dark are the minds of these deluded savages that they never
look "from nature up to nature's God," nor do they seem to have any
notion of an all-pervading, all-creating Deity. So infatuated are they
that it is said they will take old swords and knives and go out and
fight the wind when it blows contrary to their wishes.

*16.* By the help of Santurion we took the census of this nation to-day
and we found that the whole number is 573. Reckoning the Supalios or
Port Famine tribe, at 100, and the clan we have heard of in the interior
at 100 (which is probably more than they will number) then, we make only
773 inhabitants in all Eastern Patagonia, south of the Rio Negro, i. e.
if our information be correct. And our confidence of its correctness is
the more strengthened from the report of the sailors who have been with
the Indians nearly a year, and have travelled with them far into the
interior, and who unanimously tell us that they have neither seen nor
heard of any other tribes, and. that the natives have always told them
that there were no more. Indeed one need only to travel a little while
in this country and see its sterility, and to learn that the natives
subsist only by the chase, in order to come to the unavoidable
conclusion that the population must be extremely sparse.

We are told that different parties of this nation sometimes fall out and
have severe and even mortal fights with knives and other hard weapons,
and this fact seems probable from the many scars found on some of them.
They do not, however, appear to be a ferocious and warlike people, and
their quarrels only arise from petty jealousies and envies and are soon
over.

Saw some of the Indians playing with a full pack of English cards. It is
an easy matter to introduce the vices of our country among these men,
but it will be hard to eradicate them. Many of them have learned to use
some of the most obscene words in our language, and the only entire
English sentence I have heard them pronounce is a full-framed oath. I
blush for the Christian name, which, instead of teaching these pagans to
revere, has first taught them to blaspheme the Christian's God.

*17.* One woman in the camp has been engaged for some time in weaving a
blanket about four feet square, and as it is the first and only process
of the kind that I have seen, I spent some time in seeing the weaver ply
her trade. The yarn used for this purpose is spun from the wool of the
guanaco, and is drawn out with the fingers, and twisted by means of a
reed held in one hand. The loom is equally simple with the spinning
apparatus. It consists of two poles placed one above the other in a
horizontal position and so far asunder as the intended length of the
blanket. The warp being cut into threads of proper length is then tied
to these poles by each end, so as to be in a perpendicular position
before the artist, like the common weaver's harness. The weaver seats
herself before this loom, with her woof wound upon a stick for a bobbin,
and one end of it tied to an ostrich's feather for a shuttle. Thus
prepared she divides the warp by introducing a stick about a foot and a
half long between the threads, and before this is withdrawn, shoving her
feather shuttle through the space and thus introducing the woof, the
stick now serving as a reed to press the woof down to its place. When
this is done the stick is taken out and another portion of the warp is
divided in the same manner, and thus the thread of woof is extended
through it from side to side, and this process is continued till the
blanket is completed. The yarn is died different colors, and the
blankets are often made with many curious and tasteful figures; but the
process is extremely slow -- it requiring nearly two weeks to finish one
of these small blankets; consequently they are very scarce, and I have
never seen half a dozen of them in the nation. Those which are found are
mostly used to caparison the horses of the great. In the fabrication of
this article may be seen much native genius struggling to develop its
energies amidst the almost insuperable obstacles with which it is cramped.

*19.* The Indian doctor has been practising his art in different parts
of the camp during most of the day, and his howling, moaning, blowing,
screaming, shaking his rattles, etc., have become familiar music to our
ears. Much confidence seems to be placed in his superstitious and
ridiculous round of ceremonies; for he is employed by all who are ill,
from the great captain down to the meanest individual; and they not only
suppose him capable of driving diseases from man, but also from beast;
for I saw him at the tent of capt. Congo to-day endeavoring to cure a
sick horse. He went through with the same process with the horse as with
a human patient, except that he dispensed with the rattles, and probably
for the good reason, that experience had taught him that the horse would
bear this noisy prescription less patiently than the more stupid savage.
Every day brings us fresh illustrations of the dark and debased
condition of these men, and excites unavailing sympathies on their
behalf. We would preach "Christ crucified" to them, but cannot; and our
situation among them is like that of one surrounded by drowning men whom
he has no power to save. [Mr. Coan]

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On the 24th, the schooner Antarctic, capt. James S. Nash, came into
Gregory's Bay, The Indians, having learned that Messrs. Arms and Coan
intended to leave them as soon as they should find a suitable
opportunity, endeavored to prevent their being informed of this arrival.
After some refusals and delays, they at length consented to furnish
horses to convey them and their baggage to the bay.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

*25.* Arose early this morning and called for the horses we had engaged
to take us down to the vessel, but it was about two hours before they
were brought up, after which they were suffered to stray several times
before we could get them prepared for our baggage.

Most of the Indians remained on the beach during the night. Those who
were in the camp gathered around us for a farewell interview, each one
hoping to receive something from us. We endeavored to put some little
thing into every one's hand.

Santurion made us a family visit, and requested that we would return and
live with them. He also mentioned some articles he wished us to procure
in our country and bring to him. When we had finished distributing our
presents, the Indians took hold and carefully aided us in packing our
horses, and a full escort attended us down to the vessel. It was painful
to leave the camp and separate, probably forever, from these rude sons
of nature, yet in all the darkness of heathenism. But what was most
affecting was to part with our old Indian mother. Her fidelity to us had
remained unshaken to the last, and now we bade her farewell, she put on
a solemn countenance and commenced a very plaintive song, which
continued till we were beyond the sound of her voice.

When we arrived at the shore we found the Indians there very pleasant,
and having distributed a few presents we bade them farewell and went on
board the vessel. While going from the shore to the schooner, we were
passed by another boat going from the vessel to the shore, with Maria
and several Indians. When the boat passed ours, an Indian held up a
tract, and calling out to our boat's crew to look on, threw it
overboard. Old Maria now held up a bundle of tracts, and crying out
"/Malo! malo!/" dashed them into the water with indignant contempt.

When we came on board the Antarctic, capt. Nash informed us that the
Indians told him he was bad for attempting to take us away, and that we
should not go. For this reason he retained some of them on board with
the determination to keep them till he had secured us. Old Maria, he
remarked, had stolen the tracts we saw her throw into the water, from
his cabin. He also stated that she had torn many of them in pieces on
board; that she said they were "/Malo!/" and taking a tract from a
bundle she held in her hand she rent it before the captain's eyes, and
then drawing a knife from her bosom, by expressive gestures in
connection with the name of my companion, she told him that she was
going to meet Mr. Arms on the shore, tear up the tracts before him, and
then plunge her knife into his breast. She also pointed to a large
Indian standing near with a dirk, who signified that he would do the
same. In consequence of these threats, the captain thought it prudent to
prevent our coming into contact with old Maria, and for this reason sent
her to the shore in one boat, while we were brought on board in another.
What was the particular cause of this exasperated state of feeling in
the old queen at this time we do not know. She had never exhibited such
feelings towards us. [Mr. Coan]

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Messrs. Arms and Coan received a gratuitous passage in the Antarctic to
the Falkland Islands; and by a similar act of kindness on the part of
capt. G. L. Allyn, of the schooner Talma, they were brought to Groton,
Connecticut, where they arrived on the 14th of May.

------------------------------------------------------------------------